Triple Ginger Ice Cream

 It's safe to say that everyone loves ice cream, at any time of the year.  But summer is prime-time for frozen treats.  It's fun and easy to make ice cream.  The hardest decision is what flavor to choose.  Abundant summer fruits make delicious ice cream, but I had a special flavor in mind:  ginger.  The recipe I chose called for ginger root, but I decided to go high volume, and added Domaine de Canton ginger liqueur and diced candied ginger.  The result is a ginger-lover's dream come true.  This ice cream is cool and creamy and warm and spicy at the same time.   It's a perfect partner for roasted plums.

I imagine it would make a lovely finale for any spice-laden meal; a palate cooling treat with a warm edge of its own.  And it's pretty good in a waffle cone too.

Triple Ginger Ice Cream
makes about 1 quart 
2 ounces unpeeled fresh ginger root
1 cup whole milk
2 cups heavy cream
3/4 cup sugar
pinch of salt
5 large egg yolks
3 tablespoons Domaine de Canton liqueur
freshly squeezed lemon juice
1/3 cup finely diced candied (crystallized) ginger
Cut the ginger root into thin slices and place in a small, non-reactive saucepan.  Add enough water to cover the ginger by about 1/2 inch, and bring to a boil.  Boil for 2 minutes, then drain, discarding the water.  In a medium saucepan combine the blanched ginger slices, milk, 1 cup cream, sugar, and salt.  Warm the mixture, cover, and remove from the heat.  Let steep at room temperature for 1 hour.  Rewarm the mixture.  Remove the ginger slices with a slotted spoon and discard.  Pour the remaining 1 cup of heavy cream into a large bowl and set a fine-mesh strainer on top.  In a separate medium bowl, whisk together the egg yolks.  Slowly pour the warm mixture into the egg yolks, whisking constantly, then scrape the warmed egg yolks back into the saucepan.  Stir the mixture constantly over medium heat with a spatula, scraping the bottom as you stir, until the mixture thickens and coats the spatula ( 170F on an instant-read thermometer).  Pour the custard through the strainer and stir it into the cream.  Stir until cool over an ice bath.  Add the ginger liqueur and taste for sweetness.  Adjust with a 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon of lemon juice, if desired.  Chill the mixture thoroughly in the refrigerator, preferably overnight, then freeze it in your ice cream maker according to the manufacturer's instructions.  Add the diced, candied ginger in the last few minutes of the freezing process.
(adapted, ever so slightly, from "The Perfect Scoop" by David Lebovitz)

Pickled Cherries and Savory Snacks

There's nothing better when the warm summer day comes to an end than to sit outside with a cool drink and a little snack.  You can set these nibbles out while you're waiting for the grill to heat up, or serve them as a starter to a casual dinner.  Pork and fruit are natural partners, so what would be better with spicy, rich salami and ham than pickled cherries?  These are quick and simple to make, and they just get better with age.  I've added a little three cheese spread and some baguette slices to go alongside.  It's a great way to start the weekend.

Quick Pickled Cherries
(makes a pint)
A quantity of ripe cherries, enough to pack into a pint preserving jar, rinsed, stems and pits intact
1/2 cup red wine vinegar
1/2 cup water
1 1/2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
zest of 1/2 medium lemon cut in thin strips
1 bay leaf
1 tablespoon sugar
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon peppercorns
1/4 teaspoon whole cloves
a small shard or two of cinnamon stick

Pack the cherries into the clean jar and set aside.  Combine all the remaining ingredients in a small, non-reactive saucepan and bring to a boil.  Simmer the mixture until the sugar dissolves, then remove from the heat and let stand for 5 minutes to cool.  Pour the brine mixture over the cherries, cover tightly, and when cooled, store in the refrigerator.  You can use them within a few hours, but they will become more pungent and pickle-like after a few days.  These would be excellent with pate as well as cured meats.
(slightly adapted from www.brooklynsupper.net)

Three Cheese Spread
(makes a generous cup or about 9 ounces)
4 ounces cream cheese, softened
2 tablespoons mayonnaise (preferably homemade)
1 cup grated sharp cheddar cheese
1/3 cup grated Swiss cheese
1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese
1 teaspoon Kirsch or brandy (optional)
1 scallion, white bulb and green top, finely minced
1 heaping teaspoon finely minced fresh thyme leaves
a big pinch cayenne pepper
freshly ground pepper and salt (if necessary) to taste

Using a sturdy spatula or wooden spoon combine the cream cheese and the mayonnaise in a medium bowl until smooth.  Add the grated cheeses, optional Kirsch or brandy, minced scallion and thyme, and cayenne pepper.  Check seasoning and adjust with pepper and salt to your taste.  Store in the refrigerator until ready to serve.  You can also spread the cheese mixture on toasted baguette slices and run them briefly under the broiler for a warm, melty treat.

Baby Back Ribs and Cherry Barbecue Sauce

 
Everybody has a favorite barbecued rib recipe.  Whether they be pork baby backs, spareribs, Flintstone-style beef ribs, shortribs, or lamb ribs, each one is the "best".  The fun of grilling season is to try lots of different variations on the rib theme.  I like my ribs falling-off-the bone-tender and very saucy.  These ribs are not my style, but given it was Father's Day, I did them in the style that my husband prefers.  Seasoned with a dry rub, cooked slowly on the grill, and sauced sparingly, they were very good, indeed.  I made a cherry barbecue sauce; sweet, spicy, and with lots of citrus to keep it bright.  Along with corn on the cob, it was the perfect finger food dinner. 

Baby Back Ribs with Cherry Barbecue Sauce

Baby back pork ribs (allow about 1 pound per person)
Dry seasoning rub
Cherry barbecue sauce

I use a combination of salt, pepper, paprika, mustard, thyme, garlic powder, cayenne, and brown sugar for my dry rub.  For three pound of ribs  I mixed:
1 1/2 tablespoons kosher salt
2 tablespoons paprika
2 teaspoons dry mustard
2 teaspoons dark brown sugar
1 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
1 teaspoon dried thyme leaves
1/2 to 1 teaspoon garlic powder
1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper
Mix everything together in a small bowl.  Sprinkle the spice mix over both sides of the ribs, and rub it into the meat. ( Any leftover dry rub can be stored in a small jar at room temperature for several weeks).  Wrap the ribs well and refrigerate for 3 to 4 hours, or as long as overnight.  When it's time to cook the meat, heat your grill to about 250F.  I used a gas grill with only the front element on; I placed the ribs at the back of the grill.

If you use a charcoal grill, position your coals to one side and cook the ribs over indirect heat.  At 250F, the ribs will take 2 to 2 1/2 hours to become tender.  Check the meat around the bones; you should be able to move the rib bones easily, but you don't want the meat falling apart.  At this point, raise the heat a little and brush some of the sauce over the ribs.  Allow them to glaze and turn them from time to time, applying more sauce.  Watch carefully as the sauce can burn quite easily.  On a charcoal grill you can move the ribs directly over the coals for this step, but don't walk away or you will have a burnt dinner.  When the ribs are glazed to your satisfaction, remove them to a large cutting board, and after a few moments rest, carve them into serving portions.  Serve with your favorite rib accompaniments:  corn on the cob, coleslaw, baked beans, corn bread, and extra sauce on the side. 

Cherry Barbecue Sauce
(makes about 2 1/2 cups sauce)
1/2 medium onion, finely diced
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
2 cups tomato sauce ( or a 15 ounce can purchased tomato sauce)
1/2 cup dried cherries, coarsely chopped
1/4 cup cherry juice concentrate ( I use R.W. Knudsen brand black cherry juice concentrate)
1/3 cup dark brown sugar 
2 tablespoons cider vinegar
2 tablespoons orange juice
freshly squeezed juice of one small lemon
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1/2 teaspoon (or to taste) adobo sauce from canned chipotle chiles
2 tablespoons Crown Royal whiskey or your favorite whiskey, bourbon, or Scotch
kosher salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste.

Heat the vegetable oil in a medium saucepan over moderate heat.  Add the onion, garlic, and a big pinch of kosher salt and cook until the onion is softened, stirring occasionally.  Add the remaining ingredients, bring to a gentle simmer, and cook until the onion is very tender and the sauce has thickened and reduced a little.  Check the seasoning for salt and sweet-sour balance, adjusting to your taste.  Transfer the mixture to a blender or food processor and blend until smooth.  Cool slightly before using.  The sauce can be stored in the refrigerator for up to a week.  This sauce is good on all kinds of grilled foods, including burgers, chicken, and pork chops.

Cashew Butter Cookies with Toffee Chips

There's nothing better for an afternoon snack than a sweet, crumbly cookie.  These are a departure from the usual peanut butter cookie; they're made with cashew butter and filled with texture from crunchy toffee chips and chopped cashews.  It's easy to make your own nut butter and, if cashews are not your favorite, there's always hazelnuts, almonds, or that old favorite, peanuts.  Toffee chips could be replaced with chocolate chips, orange zest might be a good addition... Just use your imagination and create your favorite nut butter chipper.  Here is the recipe:

Cashew Butter Cookies with Toffee Chips
makes about 2 dozen cookies
1/4 cup vegetable shortening
3/4 cup unsalted butter, softened but still cool
1 cup cashew butter**
1 cup light brown sugar
1/4 cup golden syrup, such as Lyle's
2 large eggs
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/4 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt*
3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1 cup chocolate-covered toffee chips (such as Heath bar chips)
1 cup chopped nuts of your choice

Preheat the oven to 350F.  Lightly grease (or line with parchment) two baking sheets.  In a large bowl, cream together the shortening, butter, cashew butter, sugar, and golden syrup, beating until fluffy.  Add the eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition.  Beat in the vanilla, baking powder, baking soda, and salt*, then stir in the flour, toffee chips, and nuts.  Drop the dough by the tablespoonful onto the prepared baking sheets.  Bake the cookies for 10-12 minutes, or until they are beginning to brown.  Remove from the oven and transfer to a rack to cool.
*If the nut butter you use is salted-or if you make your own from salted nuts-start with 1/4 teaspoon salt and adjust to taste.

**Homemade Nut Butter
makes about 2 cups
2 1/2 cups nuts-peanuts, blanched whole almonds, cashews, or skinned hazelnuts, preferably unsalted
1 to 1 1/2 teaspoons salt*
1/3 cup light brown sugar
6 to 8 tablespoons vegetable oil
Preheat the oven to 350F.  Place the nuts on an ungreased baking sheet and bake for 10 to 15 minutes, or until they become a darker golden color and are quite fragrant.  Remove them from the oven and allow them to cool to lukewarm.  Place the nuts, sugar, and salt in the food processor.  With the motor running, pour in the oil and process until the butter is creamy.  Adjust the salt to taste.
*If you are using salted nuts, start with a smaller amount of salt, and adjust to taste. 
Use 1 cup of the nut butter for your cookies, refrigerate the remainder to use on toast or sandwiches.
(recipes from "The King Arthur Flour Cookie Companion')

Eton Mess

Isn't it unfortunate that a beautiful summer dessert would have such an undignified name?  Perhaps this traditional British dish started out as a "throw-together", as many good recipes do.  But, whatever the name, it is a perfect example of a sweet, seasonal treat.  Bright, fresh berries (strawberries are the preferred choice), smooth cream, and crunchy meringues combine for a quick and easy-to-make dessert.  I just happened to have meringues on hand:  after making the lemon tart last weekend I baked the leftover meringue and stored the crunchy discs in an airtight container. 

Store bought meringues would be just as good in a pinch.  So here is everything you need to proceed:

Eton Mess
for about 4-6 servings
1 1/2 to 2 cups diced strawberries (rinse, hull, and dice before measuring)
1 cup heavy cream, chilled
1 1/2 to 2 cups roughly broken pieces of crunchy meringues.
granulated sugar to taste (for macerating the strawberries)

Place the diced berries in a medium bowl, and add about 2 tablespoons of sugar (adjust this to your taste).  Let them sit for about 45 minutes.  Just before you are ready to serve the dessert, whip the cream to soft peaks in a large bowl.  Fold the strawberries and some of their juices, along with the meringue pieces, into the whipped cream.  Spoon the mixture into serving dishes and drizzle a little of the strawberry syrup over each serving.  Garnish with additional strawberry slices, if you like.

*Eton Mess can be made with your favorite summer berry.  If you have any leftovers, use them as a dessert topping for fresh fruit or poundcake.  The crunch of the meringues will be gone, but it will still be a delicious treat.

Homemade Mayonnaise and the Best Egg Salad

Recently I came across an article in the New York Times by Melissa Clark extolling the virtues of homemade mayonnaise.  At the same time I found I had run out of the jarred mayonnaise I commonly use.  So today I finally got around to making some mayonnaise; and I did it the old-fashioned way.  Mayonnaise is one of the "Mother" sauces of French cuisine.  It is a cold emulsion created by incorporating oil into egg yolk and adding the flavorings and seasonings of your choice.  The taste and texture is unlike any commercial product you will find, and you can personalize the sauce in a myriad of ways.  There are a few tricks to make the process easier, but it is basically just a matter of being patient and careful as you whisk the oil into the egg mixture.  Here is a basic recipe:

Homemade Mayonnaise (from Melissa Clark at the New York Times)
1 large egg yolk, at room temperature (use the most impeccably fresh, "clean" eggs you can find)
2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1 teaspoon water
1/4 teaspoon salt
3/4 cup oil, such as canola

Whisk the egg yolk, lemon juice, mustard, water, and salt together in a medium bowl until frothy and well-blended.  Now slowly begin to add the oil, initially by drops, whisking all the while.  Take your time: you will need to add a least a quarter of the oil by droplets before the emulsion will begin to thicken.  As the mixture thickens, you can add the oil in a fine stream.   By the time you have incorporated all the oil, the mixture should be thick enough to mound slightly on a spoon.  (If at any time it separates, you  can save it by starting again with a clean bowl and another egg yolk.  Slowly beat the separated mixture into the egg yolk and it should come together).   Once your mayonnaise is done you can adjust the seasoning to your taste and flavor it with garlic, chipotle, sriracha, tapenade, anchovies, fresh herbs; you are only limited by your imagination.  Remember that this mayonnaise is perishable;  you can't keep it in the door of the refrigerator for weeks.  This recipe will make about 8 ounces and you should use it within a week.

For my egg salad sandwich I chopped 2 large, hard-cooked eggs and added a good dollop of mayonnaise.  Into the mixture went a small scallion, white bulb and green top finely chopped, and a pinch of salt and pepper.  I piled the mixture onto a slice of multi-grain bread and topped it with a large, crisp leaf of lettuce. Another slice of bread on top and that's it.   A very good lunch, indeed.

**I would be remiss not to mention that any person who has been advised to avoid raw or under-cooked eggs (pregnant women, the immune-compromised, very young children) should not consume homemade mayonnaise.

Lemon Meringue Tart

This past weekend there was a birthday in our family and lemon tart was the requested dessert.  I don't usually make a meringue topping on my lemon tarts, as the family prefers just the pure lemon curd flavor.  But I thought I'd change it up this time, so this one has the addition of Italian meringue.  There is an added step in preparing Italian meringue, but the results are really worth it; pillowy soft and marshmallow-like in texture, it's a great counter-point to my especially tart lemon curd filling.  Here are the recipes:
Lemon Meringue Tart
For the pastry:
7 ounces all-purpose flour (200 gm)
3.5 ounces unsalted butter, cold (100 gm)
1 large egg
2 teaspoons cold water
pinch of salt
Rub the cold butter into the flour  with your fingertips or a pastry cutter.  When the texture is fine and sandy, add a pinch of fine sea salt, then make a well in the center of the bowl.  Add the egg and the cold water to the well and mix everything together quickly with a fork.  When the dough gathers together, shape it into a round, flattened disc and wrap it securely with plastic wrap.  Let the dough chill in the refrigerator for at least an hour. 
For the lemon curd:
finely grated zest of 1 large lemon
1/2 cup freshly-squeezed lemon juice
2 large eggs
3 large egg yolks
6-8 tablespoons granulated sugar (adjust this to your taste)
2 tablespoons milk
6 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut in small pieces
pinch of salt
Beat the eggs and egg yolks with the sugar in a heavy, non-reactive saucepan.  Mix in the milk and blend well.  Stir in the lemon juice, a pinch of salt, and the butter pieces.  Cook the mixture over low to medium heat, stirring constantly, until it coats the spoon and is the thickness of creme anglaise.    Strain through a fine-mesh sieve into a medium bowl.  Stir in the grated zest and cover the surface directly with plastic wrap.  Store in the refrigerator until needed.
For the Italian meringue
4 large egg whites (120 gm)
8.5 ounces granulated sugar (240 gm)
3 ounces water (80 gm)
1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar
Mix the water and sugar together in a heavy saucepan.  Heat to boiling, stirring only until the sugar is dissolved.  Boil, without stirring, until the mixture reaches 248F on an instant read or candy thermometer.  In the meantime, whip the egg whites and cream of tartar with the whisk attachment of an electric mixer to soft peaks.  When the syrup is ready, stream it into the egg whites while beating at medium high speed. ( Take care not to let the syrup run onto the whisk or it will spin onto the sides of the bowl).  Continue to beat until the whites are firm and glossy and the mixture has cooled.
To assemble the tart:
Preheat the oven to 375F.  Roll out the chilled dough to fit an 8 or 9 inch loose-bottom tart tin.  Fit the dough into the tin and trim the edges.  Prick the dough with a fork and cover with a parchment round.  Fill the tart tin with pie weights or dried beans and bake the tart for about 15-20 minutes.  Remove the weights and parchment paper and return the tart to the oven for an additional 10 minutes or until fully cooked and slightly browned.  Set aside to cool slightly.  Fill the tart with the lemon curd ( you will have a little leftover curd if you are using an 8 inch tart pan).   Return the tart to the oven for about 15 minutes or until the surface is smooth and shiny and the lemon curd is set.  You can let the tart cool and serve it as is, or top it with a generous amount of Italian meringue.  If you choose to top with the meringue, pipe it on with a decorative tip or swirl designs into the surface with a small spatula.  Make sure the meringue touches the edges of the pastry crust, so that it does not shrink away from the sides of the tart.  Color the surface with a kitchen torch or place in a hot oven (450F) for a few minutes to brown the meringue. 
(Lemon curd recipe adapted from "Chez Panisse Desserts" by Lindsey Remolif Shere)