Italian Sausage and Roasted Eggplant Pasta

Pasta is the ultimate convenience food, as far as I'm concerned.  It's quick-cooking, infinitely adaptable, and always satisfying.  This recipe might serve as a template, a starting point, so to speak.  You begin with a little flavorful protein, add some fresh seasonal vegetables, and toss those with  sturdy pasta.  Garnish the dish with lots of fresh herbs and rich cheese, and dinner is served.  I used Italian sausage, eggplant, cherry tomatoes, penne, basil, and burrata in my impromptu pasta supper, but you could just as easily substitute ground lamb and garnish with mint and feta for an entirely different taste and mood.  With a little imagination you can create a healthy and fast dinner with ingredients in your pantry and refrigerator.  Here's how to start:

Italian Sausage and Roasted Eggplant Pasta
(serves 4)
1 small eggplant (7 to 8 ounces), thinly sliced
2 tablespoons olive oil
kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
8 ounces Italian sausage, casings removed or in bulk form
1/4 cup dry white wine
16 ounces cherry tomatoes, stemmed and rinsed
1 cup chicken stock
12 ounces sturdy, short tubes of pasta, such as penne or rigatoni
1 cup torn burrata cheese (or fresh ricotta)
1 generous cup of fresh basil leaves, roughly torn if very large
Preheat the oven to 425F.  Place the eggplant slices, in a single layer, on a parchment-lined baking sheet.  Drizzle with a tablespoon or so of olive oil and season with salt and pepper.  Roast for about 10 minutes, or until golden.  Set aside.  Heat another tablespoon of oil in a large, non-stick skillet over medium-high heat.  Crumble in the Italian sausage and cook, breaking up any large pieces with a spoon, until golden and cooked through.  Add the chopped garlic and the white wine to the pan.  Let the wine bubble down to a glaze, then add the tomatoes and stock.  Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to medium, and simmer until the tomatoes soften and the liquid thickens slightly.  Taste and season with salt and pepper.  While the sauce simmers, cook the pasta in lots of boiling salted water until al dente (tender but still firm).  Drain the pasta and add to the sauce with the roasted eggplant.  Toss together over low heat to combine and coat the pasta with sauce.  Plate the pasta in a large bowl or platter, and top with cheese and basil.  Grind a little fresh black pepper over the cheese, if you like.
(adapted from Donna Hay magazine, issue 68) 

  

 

Oatmeal Chocolate Chip Cake

This is the perfect example of an easy and delicious snack or brunch cake.  It has the flavor of an oatmeal-chocolate chip cookie and a texture reminiscent of banana bread.  An added bonus is its ease of preparation; there's no electric mixer required here, just whisk, stir, and fold.  Your cake will be in the oven in no time at all.  A cream cheese frosting adds a touch of richness to this simple, homey cake.  If you're in a hurry for something to enjoy with your morning coffee, or you need a dessert for the children's lunchboxes, simply dust the cake with a little confectioner's sugar.  It will be every bit as good.

Oatmeal Chocolate Chip Cake
(makes one 9x13 inch cake)
8 ounces chocolate chips
1/2 teaspoon bourbon, Scotch, or your favorite liquor
1 1/2 cups plus 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1 cup rolled oats
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, cut into small cubes, at room temperature
2 eggs, slightly beaten
3/4 cup granulated sugar
1 1/4 cups firmly packed dark brown sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 1/2 teaspoons cinnamon
Cream Cheese Frosting
5 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
5 1/2 ounces cream cheese, softened
2 cups confectioner's sugar, sifted
3/4 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

For the Cake:
Preheat the oven to 375F and position a rack in the center.  Butter the sides and bottom of a 9x13 inch glass or light-colored metal baking pan.  Heat 1 1/4 cups of water to boiling.  Place the chocolate chips in a small bowl and toss them with the bourbon until covered.  Sprinkle 2 tablespoons of the flour over the chips and toss until coated.  This will keep them from settling at the bottom of the cake during baking.  Set aside.  Place the oats and cubed butter in a medium bowl.  Pour the boiling water over the oat mixture, wait 30 seconds, and stir to moisten all the oats and melt the butter.  Set the mixture aside for 25 to 30 minutes to cool.  In a large bowl, whisk together the eggs, both sugars, salt, baking soda, baking powder, and cinnamon until combined.  Fold in the cooled  oatmeal and stir until well combined.  Gently fold in the remaining flour and then the chocolate chips.  Pour the batter into the prepared pan.  Place the pan in the oven, reduce the heat to 350F, and bake the cake for 35 to 40 minutes, or until a tester inserted in the center comes out clean.  Let the cake cool in the pan on a wire rack for at least 30 minutes.
For the Cream Cheese Frosting:
In the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or with a hand mixer), beat the butter until it is completely smooth.  Add the cream cheese and beat until combined.  Add the confectioner's sugar and vanilla and beat until smooth, about 1 minute.  Spread a thin, even layer of frosting over the cooled cake.  Chill in the refrigerator for 15 to 30 minutes to allow it to set.  Slice and serve.  Store the frosted cake, tightly covered, in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. (An unfrosted cake can be kept, covered, at room temperature)
( from "Baked Explorations" by Matt Lewis and Renato Poliafito)

     

A Burger and a Shake

If you plan on firing up the grill this weekend, take a look at these cookout partners.  What could be better than a tasty burger and a rich, frosty milkshake?  The burger is a combination of turkey and chorizo, embellished with an avocado relish and fresh tomato.  The milkshake is based on roasted pineapple; perhaps a more adult version of a diner favorite and certainly a perfect dessert drink with the addition of a little rum.  The chorizo takes ground turkey from bland and boring to spicy and delicious.  And I'm definitely spiking that shake with some good golden rum.  It's starting to feel like summer already!

Turkey-Chorizo Burgers with Avocado Relish
(serves 4)
1/2 pound fresh Mexican-style chorizo, casings removed or in bulk form
1 pound ground turkey
kosher salt
1 large Haas avocado, halved, pitted, peeled and coarsely mashed
1/2 small onion, finely diced
1/2 jalapeno chile, finely diced
Juice of 1 lime
1/4 cup finely chopped fresh cilantro leaves
freshly ground pepper
4 rolls, split and toasted
1 medium ripe tomato, sliced
Crumble the chorizo into small pieces over a large mixing bowl.  Add the turkey and 1/2 teaspoon salt and mix well with your hands.  Form into 4 1/2-inch thick patties.  Make an indentation in the center of each burger with your fingertips to prevent it from forming a domed shape on the grill.  Prepare your grill and oil the grates.  Cook the burgers, turning once , until an instant-read thermometer registers 165F, about 10 minutes.  Meanwhile, in a small bowl, combine the avocado, onion, jalapeno, lime juice, and cilantro and mix gently.  Season with salt and pepper.  To serve:  spread the avocado relish over the bottom of each roll, top with a burger, a tomato slice and the top of the roll.  Enjoy!

 

Roasted Pineapple Milkshake
(makes four 6-ounce milkshakes)
1/2 small Golden pineapple, cored and cut into wedges (3 cups)
1/2 cup pineapple juice, chilled
1/4 cup lemon sorbet
10 ounces premium vanilla ice cream (or homemade vanilla ice cream)
2 ounces dark or golden rum (optional)
Preheat the oven to 375F.  Combine the pineapple and 1/4 cup of the juice in a small roasting dish and roast in the oven, turning once, until golden brown, about 15-20 minutes.  Remove from the oven and let cool completely.  Set aside 4 pineapple wedges for garnish.  Put the remaining cooled roasted pineapple, any juice from the roasting dish, and the remaining 1/4 cup pineapple juice in a blender and blend until combined (if using the rum add it as well).  Add the sorbet and ice cream and blend until smooth, about 10 seconds.  Portion into 4 glasses or wine goblets and garnish with a pineapple wedge.
(Turkey-Chorizo Burgers minimally adapted from Fine Cooking, volume 123)
(Avocado relish and Pineapple Milkshakes from "Burgers, Fries, and Shakes" by Bobby Flay) 

Lemon-Lavender Shortbread

My mother was the ultimate shortbread cookie baker.  Her's were the best ever.  She would bake dozens of them for holidays and special occasions and store them in old-fashioned cookie tins.  A while back I wrote here about my mother and her wonderful talent for baking. Today would have been her ninety-third birthday.  Mom passed away last month after a long struggle with dementia.  I'll be thinking about her this Sunday; her kind and gentle nature, her generous spirit, and all the good times we had together.  This is for you Mom.

Lemon-Lavender Shortbread
(makes 2 1/2 to 3 dozen cookies)
8 ounces (2 sticks) unsalted butter, at cool room temperature
finely grated zest of a medium-sized lemon
2 scant teaspoons lavender buds, chopped into small pieces, if necessary
4 ounces confectioner's sugar
10 ounces unbleached all-purpose flour
2 ounces rice flour
1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt
In a medium bowl, whisk together the all-purpose flour, rice flour, and salt.  Set aside.  In a large mixing bowl, blend the butter with the lemon zest and chopped lavender.  This is best accomplished with a sturdy spatula or wooden spoon (you may use an electric mixer, but do not over work the mixture).  Gradually blend in the confectioner's sugar and mix until evenly combined.  Add the flour mixture, a 1/2 cup or so at a time, and mix until a soft dough forms.  Knead the dough gently in the bowl to combine the last bits of flour.  Remove the cookie dough to your work space and divide it in two pieces.  You may form each piece of dough into a 1 1/2-inch diameter log, or simply pat each piece into a flattened disc.  Wrap tightly and refrigerate for an hour or so (or as long as 2-3 days).  When ready to bake preheat the oven to 325F, position a rack in the center of the oven.  Line a baking sheet with parchment.  Cut the dough logs into 3/8-inch slices and place on the prepared sheet.  Bake for about 15 minutes, or until the edges are just beginning to brown.  If you prefer to cut shapes for your cookies, roll the chilled discs about 1/4-inch thick and cut the cookies into whatever shape you please.  Gently pat together the scraps and continue until all the dough is shaped.  Bake the shaped cookies for 12 to 15 minutes.  Remove the cookies from the sheet to a rack to cool completely.  Store in an airtight container or tin.

Chorizo and Potato Quesadillas

One of my favorite taco fillings is chorizo and potato.  I was wondering how the combination might translate to quesadillas and, as it happens, it's pretty good.  These quesadillas would make a great starter for a Cinco de Mayo celebration.  Or serve them as a main course for four people with a salad full of greens, tomatoes, and avocado.  Pour your favorite beverage to go alongside and enjoy!

Chorizo and Potato Quesadillas
(4 main course servings or 8-12 starter servings)
1 8 ounce Yukon gold potato, peeled and cut into small dice
Kosher salt
8 ounces bulk, Mexican-style chorizo (I use an organic brand called "Dos Mamacitas")
2 tablespoons butter, at room temperature
4 9-inch flour tortillas (burrito size)
8 ounces Pepper Jack cheese, grated
1/3 cup coarsely chopped cilantro leaves
Fresh salsa, for serving
Preheat the oven to 200F.  Place the diced potatoes in a small saucepan and cover with cold water.  Bring to a lively simmer, season with salt, and cook until just tender (this will take about 6-8 minutes).  Drain the potatoes and set aside.  Place a 10- or 12-inch non-stick skillet over medium-high heat and crumble the chorizo into the pan.  Cook until the meat is no longer pink and is lightly browned.  Lower the heat to medium and add the drained, diced potatoes.  Toss the mixture to combine the potatoes and chorizo, then remove from the pan with a slotted spoon or spatula.  Set aside in a warm spot.  Wipe out the pan thoroughly.  Butter one side of each tortilla and place them, buttered side down, on your work surface.  Portion a quarter of the grated cheese over each tortilla, covering only half of each and leaving a 1/2 inch or so margin at the edge.  Distribute the chorizo and potato mixture atop the cheese in a similar fashion.  Sprinkle the cilantro leaves atop the filling and fold each tortilla in half to enclose the filling.  Replace the skillet over medium heat and cook two quesadillas, covered, until golden brown, 3-4 minutes.  Uncover the skillet and flip the quesadillas.  Cook the second side until golden and the cheese is completely melted.  Transfer the quesadillas to the oven to keep warm while you cook the remaining two.  Cut each quesadilla in half, for main course servings, or in smaller wedges for appetizer portions.  Serve with your favorite accompaniments (fresh salsa, guacamole, and so on).
(adapted from "Fine Cooking" volume number 79)

Looking Forward to Salad Days

It seems like there's no shortage of "National" food events to celebrate.  April was "National Grilled Cheese Sandwich Month", and just to be sure our diets are balanced, May is "National Salad Month".  And I have the perfect example of what the month should hold in store.  Sam Sifton couldn't have put it better when he wrote in the preface to his New York Times article "Smells Like Green Spirit":  "At Seattle's fanciest restaurant, it's the simplest salad that stands out."  The salad he was referring to is the Canlis Salad, from the restaurant of the same name.  It is, without a doubt, salad perfection.  Simple ingredients combined to give you a different taste, texture, and color in every bite.  Green freshness from the lettuce and herbs, tart bursts of tomato flavor, and salty heft from bacon and cheese make this salad so satisfying.  There is a lemon and olive oil dressing  emulsified with a coddled egg, reminiscent of another classic, the Caesar salad.  And those croutons:  bites of crunchy bread that you've toasted in a bit of bacon dripping.  I challenge you to not eat too many of them before they get to the salad bowl.  Wash and dry all the leaves very thoroughly and make the dressing with your best olive oil.  Then enjoy what may become your next favorite celebration salad.

Canlis Salad
(serves 4 to 6)
2 heads of romaine, outer leaves discarded, chopped
4 slices bacon, chopped
1 cup cubed fresh Italian bread
1 egg**
1/4 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
1/2 cup olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1/2 cup scallions, thinly sliced
3/4 cup fresh mint, roughly chopped
1 tablespoon fresh oregano leaves, roughly chopped
12 cherry tomatoes, halved
3/4 cup freshly grated Romano cheese
Wash the lettuce in cold water, dry thoroughly and put in the refrigerator to chill.  In a large pan set over medium-high heat, fry the bacon  until it is nearly crisp, then remove to a bowl.  Drain off all but one tablespoon of fat, then add the bread cubes to the pan and toss to coat.  Bring the heat to low and toast, tossing occasionally with a spoon until it is crisp.  Remove to another bowl.  Make the dressing:  Place a whole egg in its shell into a coffee cup, then pour boiling water over the top.  Allow the egg to cook for 60 seconds, then remove it.  Rinse with water until cool.  In a mixing bowl, whisk together the lemon juice and olive oil, then crack the coddled egg into the bowl and whisk again, vigorously, to emulsify.  Add salt and pepper to taste, then set aside.  In a salad bowl, combine the lettuce, scallions, mint, oregano, and the reserved bacon.  Toss with enough dressing to coat the lettuce, then top with the tomatoes, the croutons, and a goodly shower of cheese.
(adapted from Canlis Restaurant, Seattle via the New York Times Magazine)
**Keep in mind that very young children, pregnant women, the elderly, and anyone with a compromised immune system should not consume raw or under-cooked eggs.

Rhubarb Upside-Down Cake

Rhubarb is, for me, the culinary harbinger of spring.   Last year I made some rhubarb tarts, which I dressed up with a pistachio crumble and a little whipped cream.  Looking forward to the weekend I decided on an old-fashioned upside-down cake and I am very pleased with the results.  The cake is light and tender, and the rhubarb topping is tart, sweet, and pretty enough for a special occasion.  If you are entertaining and need a seasonal specialty for brunch or dessert, this is the answer.  Serve it just slightly warm, with strawberry ice cream, and your guests will be very happy indeed. 

Rhubarb Upside-Down Cake
(makes 1 9-inch cake which will serve 8 to 10)
2 1/2 sticks unsalted butter, at room temperature, more to grease the pan
1 1/2 pounds rhubarb, rinsed and sliced into 1/2 inch cubes (about 4 cups)
3 tablespoons of finely minced candied ginger
2 teaspoons cornstarch
1 1/2 cups granulated sugar
1/2 cup light brown sugar
2 cups cake flour
1 1/4 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon ground ginger
finely grated zest of 1 lemon
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
4 large eggs
1/3 cup sour cream
2 teaspoons lemon juice

Heat the oven to 325F.  Line the bottom of a 9-inch springform pan with parchment paper.  Butter the paper and the sides of the pan.  Warp two layers of foil under the pan, and place it on a buttered baking sheet.  In a medium bowl, mix the rhubarb, cornstarch, candied ginger, and 1/2 cup granulated sugar.  Mix the brown sugar and 1/2 stick of butter in a pan over medium heat.  Whisk until smooth an bubbling, about 2 minutes.  Sift together the cake flour, baking powder, salt, and ground ginger.  Whip 2 sticks of butter in a mixer with a paddle attachment for 2 minutes.  Add the lemon zest and the remaining 1 cup of sugar and cream together with the butter until it is light and fluffy, about 4 minutes, stopping to scrape down the bowl halfway through.  Add the vanilla and mix well.  Add the eggs, one at a time, mixing well after each addition.  Mix in the sour cream, then the lemon juice.  (It's okay if the mixture looks curdled.)  With the mixer set to low speed, add the flour mixture, 1/4 cup at a time, until well combined.  Scrape down the mixer bowl in between the additions.  Pour the brown-sugar mixture into the cake pan, then spoon in the rhubarb and its juices.  Spoon in the batter so it covers all of the rhubarb.  Carefully smooth the top.  Bake for about 1 hour and 15 minutes, or until the top of the cake is firm to touch and a toothpick stuck in the middle comes out without any large, moist crumbs.  Place the pan on a wire rack and cool for 15 minutes.  Run a knife around the cake, place a plate on top of the pan and turn it upside-down.  Release the cake from the pan while still warm or else it will stick.
(minimally adapted from Melissa Clark at the New York Times)